Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee Annual Meeting in London 2017
The Narrative Power of Clothes: Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee annual meeting, London, 25 – 29 June 2017. ISBN 978-2-491997-18-2
Edited by Johannes Pietsch
The Annual Meeting and Symposium of the ICOM Costume Committee was held 25 – 29 June 2017 in London, England. We were most graciously hosted for an opening reception by Mrs. Helene Alexander at the Fan Museum in Greenwich. The meeting theme, “The Narrative Power of Clothes,” elicited stimulating papers and much discussion during an intense three days at the London College of Fashion. On the evening of Tuesday, 27 June, we visited Kensington Palace to view “Enlightened Princesses,” curated by Costume Committee member and former chair, Johanna Marschner, “Victoria Revealed,” “Diana, Her Fashion Story,” and the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection storage. On the fourth day we visited The School of Historical Dress that houses the Janet Arnold Arcives, and then the Victoria and Albert Museum where we heard a curatorial talk by Cassie Davies-Strodder followed by a visit to the “Balenciaga” exhibition. A one-day post-conference trip to Chatsworth to see the “House Style” exhibition took place on 30 June.
Members of the Board of Officers and the Committee made essential contacts which allowed this 2017 meeting to proceed after the unfortunate cancellation of the Bangkok meeting due to the death of the king. Our thanks must go to Matteo Augello who suggested the London College of Fashion and made the first contact; Johannes Pietsch who made the contact with the School of Historical Dress; and Alexandra Kim who had contacts at the Fan Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, Kensington Palace, and contacted Chatsworth and the transportation companies necessary for the post-conference day trip. Through it all Paola Di Trocchio kept sending the e-mails and Meike Koenigstein kept the ICOM Costume Web site up to date. As a result of all of these efforts and more, we had a meeting with 81 attendees, 5 accompanying persons and a program of 46 presentations with 27 countries represented. The committee was able to provide full or partial subventions to nine members.
In these proceedings, you will find a wide range of papers including studies of the clothing of individuals in historical, contemporary and ethnographic contexts; studies of designers and industries related to clothing production; discussions of exhibition processes and conservation issues. It is our hope that they will provide not only a record of the 2017 meeting, but also helpful information to those who are interested in the scholarly activities of the Costume Committee and who, at a future time, might join the Committee and contribute their own expertise to further the field of costume studies within museums.
Jean L. Druesedow
Chair of the ICOM Costume Committee
Content
- The Mysterious Hindeloopen Chintz Wentke Revealed
by Gieneke Arnolli - Heritage Collections in Support of a Narrative: Dressing the Body, Silhouettes and Fashion 1550-2015
by Teresa Bastardes Mestre and Silvia Ventosa Muñoz - One Woman – Many Transitions: Deborah Davidoff from Tashkent, Uzbekistan as a model of the transformations of Bu-kharan Jewish women’s dress from the early twentieth century to the middle of the twentieth century
by No’am Bar’am-Ben Yossef - Le costume des ecclésiastiques européens en Asie : un exemple d’inculturation
by Bernard Berthod - What Stockings can tell Us: Industrial Innovation, Fashion and Company History
by Michaela Breil - Conservation and the Narrative Power of Exhibited Garments
by Mary M. Brooks and Dinah D. Eastop - Conservation and Restoration Uncovers the History of a First Lady’s Gown
by Colleen R. Callahan - How American Designer James Galanos’ Archives Reflect a New Narrative for Post-Couture Fashion
by Louise Coffey-Webb - Bordados: An Exhibition of Embroidered Textiles from Mexico
by Rebecca Devaney - The Atopos Paper Dress Collection: The Back to Front Story of a Paper Kimono
by Stamos Fafalios - Men of Decorum and Distinction: Pages’ Livery and the Education of Aristocratic Manliness
by Elisabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch - A Hidden History
by Konstantina Hlaváčková - European Context of the Changes of the Peasants’ Clothing at the End of the Nineteenth Century in Latvia (Rucava Parish)
by Aija Jansone - “Then to Sewing”: Clothing the Family in Nineteenth-Century Upper Canada
by Alexandra Kim - Many Ways of Personal Piety – From Secular World into Sacred Space: Examples of Liturgical Vestments and Other Paraments from the Collections of the National Museum in Krakow
by Joanna Regina Kowalska - The ‘Silver Duchess’ and her ‘Travelling Outfit’
by Roger Leong - The Northern Ligths Brand: Shining Elegance of the North
by Mari Lind - The Persistent Narrative
by Kathi Martin, Daniel Caulfield-Sriklad and Nick Jushchyshyn - To the Altar and Beyond: Hidden Traces of Women’s Wedding Clothes in the Treasury of the Parish Church in Prčanj
by Draginja Maskareli - The History of Three Rare Exhibits from the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum’s
Collection
by Shirin Melikova - A Contribution to the Understanding of Socialist Fashion: Yugoslav State Protocol and Western Fashion (1952–1961)
by Mirjana Menković - The Narrative Power of Dress in Nigerian Museum Exhibitions: Lace and Onyonyo Traditional Attires in Perspective
by Louisa Onuoha
- “Doulamas” the Magnificent
by Ioanna Papantoniou - Folds of Migration: The Story of a Black Dress
by Elia Petridou
- Stories behind Archaeological Textiles Fragments from the Early Islamic Period till the Medieval Period in the Land of Israel
by Orit Shamir and Alisa Baginski - Vestiges of Fashion in the Garbage of Copenhagen: Pockets flaps excavated from 18th-century Copenhagen
by Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset
- Memoirs of a Brazilian Fan
by Maria Cristina Volpi - From Haute Couture Model to Best-Seller: Madeleine Vionnet’s “Little Horse Dress” as a role model for different interpretations of a pattern, based on an antique example
by Christine Waidenschlager - Abstracts of other presentations that are not available as an article