ICOM Costume Conference 2023 Paper sessions

List of panels & speakers

Sunday 24th September

Opening Reception at French Institute of Scotland

17:00 Doors Open
17:30 Welcome and presentations

Invisible Men in Black
Professor Andrew Groves and Dr Danielle Sprecher, Westminster Menswear Archive, University of Westminster

New Research Fellowship at the Lewis Walpole Library at Yale University Joanna Marschner, Historic Royal Palaces

Monday 25th September
National Museums Scotland

Panel 1 – Black in a social context, part I
Moderated by Jackie Yoong, Asian Civilisations Museum and Peranakan Museum (ICOM Singapore)

09:15 – 09:30 Welcome from Christopher Breward, Director of National Museums Scotland & ICOM Costume Chair

09:30 – 09:45 Change of a black dress. The reliability of a seventeenth-century doll as a source for dress history
Marjolein Homan Free, University of Amsterdam

09:45 – 10:00 To wear or not to wear: black masks and luxury shopping in 17th-century England
Juliet Huang, University of Maryland

10:00 – 10:15 Why Black? Examples from the National Museum in Krakow collections (19th-20th century)
Joanna Regina Kowalska, The National Museum in Krakow

10:15 – 10:30 Balenciaga in black & more about the Dutch black fashion connection
Madelief Hohé, Kunstmuseum Den Haag, the Hague, the Netherlands

10:30 – 11:00 Q&A

Panel 2 – Black in a social context, part II
Moderated by Davide Castagnola, Università degli Studi di Firenze (ICOM Italy)

11:30 – 11:45 From All the Colours to Black: Introduction of Black Colour into the Serbian 19th Century National Costume
Draginja Maskareli, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade and Jelena Sekulović, Ethnographic Museum, Belgrade

11:45 – 12:00 Black backstage
Dorothea Nicolai, Nicolai Costumes

12:00 – 12:15 Striking black: uses and meanings in sport
Patricia Reymond, Olympic Museum, Lausanne, Switzerland

12:15 – 12:30 Visible/Invisible: protection and healing in the urban landscape
D. Denenge Duyst-Akpem, School of the Art Institute of Chicago

12:30 – 12:45 Q&A

Panel 3 – Black in a spiritual context
Moderated by Joanna Kowalska, The National Museum in Krakow (ICOM Poland)

14 :00 – 14:15 Le Noir, une couleur ecclesiastique
Bernard Berthod, Independent Researcher

14:15 – 14:30 The Chilean mantle: tradition in black
Isabel Alvarado, Museo Histórico Nacional

14:30 – 14:45 ‘Their robes are most often black’ – The colour black in Christian women’s religious garments,
from the origins to the eighteenth century.
Sara Paci Piccolo, Fashion Institute of Technology, Florence/New York

14:45 – 15:00 Q&A

Panel 4 – Collections, Exhibitions & Displays
Moderated by Vicky Salias, Museo de la Historia del Traje (ICOM Argentina)

15:30 – 15:45 Black – how it became the favourite colour of fashion
Dr Judit Szatmári, Budapest History Museum

15:45 – 16:00 Black is not always the same black. Short parade of various black costumes from four centuries
in the castle wardrobe at Český Krumlov and other aristocratic houses in the South Bohemia
Kateřina Cichrová, National Heritage Institute, Czech Republic

16:00 – 16:15 Dark and romantic goths – documentation of contemporary culture
Mari Lind, Museum Milavida & Amuri Museum of Historic Housing

16:15 – 16:30 ‘Black in Fashion’
Theo Tyson, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

16:30 – 16:45 Q&A

16:45 – 17:00 Introduction to Beyond the Little Black Dress
Georgina Ripley, National Museums Scotland

Tuesday 26th September
National Museums Scotland

Panel 5 – Ceremonial Black: Weddings & Mourning, part I
Moderated by Ninke Bloemberg, Centraal Museum, Utrecht (ICOM Netherlands)

9:30 – 09:45 Black for marriage and mourning in Friesland, Netherlands
Gieneke Arnolli, former curator Fries Museum Leeuwarden

9:45 – 10:00 A bride all in black: the meaning of black in Alsatian regional dress
Sara Hume, Kent State University Museum

10:00 – 10:15 Brides in black (Finland)
Anni Shepherd, University of Turku

10:15 – 10:30 A black maternity/ wedding gown
Tirza Westland, Kunstmuseum Den Haag

10:30 – 10:45 Q&A

Panel 6 – Ceremonial Black: Weddings & Mourning, part II
Moderated by Cynthia Cooper, McCord Stewart Museum (ICOM Canada)

11:15 – 11:30 Black Weddings, White Mourning: Black, and a little white, in Jewish Ceremonial Dress
Efrat Assaf-Shapira, The Israel Museum, Jerusalem

11:30 – 11:45 The Widow of Balmoral: mourning tartans and Victorian chromophobia
Professor Jonathan Faiers, University of Southampton and Kirsty Hassard, V&A Dundee

11:45 – 12:00 ‘Hungarian Mourning’ – black as the colour of protest between 1849 and 1940
Csilla Kollár, Hungarian National Museum, Budapest

12:00 – 12:30 Q&A

Wednesday 27th September
National Museums Scotland

Panel 7 – Fashioning Identities
Moderated by Georgina Ripley, National Museums Scotland (ICOM UK)

09:30 – 09:45 [Madame] Grès in Black
Anabela Becho, University of Lisbon

09:45 – 10:00 Through a Champagne Glass Darkly: A Reflection of the Inimitable Nancy Cunard
Caela Castillo, Independent Researcher

10:00 – 10:15 How and Why Johnny Cash became the man in black?
Dr. Vicki L. Berger and Rebecca R. Akins

10:15 – 10:30 Halston in Black
Scott Schiavone, The Harris, Preston

10:30 – 10:45 Q&A

Panel 8 – Techniques of production
Moderated by Isabel Alvarado, Museo Histórico Nacional (ICOM Chile)

11:15 – 11:30 Black in Serbian traditional textile handiwork
Marina Cvetković, Ethnographic Museum, Belgrade

11:30 – 11:45 ‘A perfect black’: the art of dyeing wool in different shades of black with natural dyes
Natalia Ortega Saez, University of Antwerp

11:45 – 12:00 Black and More: the pattern books of the Neue Augsburger Kattunfabrik (NAK), Germany
Dr Michaela Breil, Staatliches Textil- und Industriemuseum Augsburg

12:15 – 12:30 Q&A

To download the complete paper sessions programme, click here.

To download the abstracts for each paper, click here.