ICOM Costume Proceedings 2021 ‘The Making of Luxury’

The years 2020-2021 were marked by the global crisis of the Covid-19 pandemic. Travel restrictions, strict regulations, and unprecedented sanitary international rules regarding public gathering, museum openings and events have led us to accept different ways of convening our ICOM Costume meetings and assemblies.
The annual conference ‘The Making of Luxury’ first planned in 2020 at Versailles palace could not happen due to the pandemic and the resulting regulations, curfews and confinements in France.
After the consultation of ICOM Costume members, the decision was made to cancel the conference ‘in-person’ as it was planned, nevertheless Versailles remains a place of interest for an ICOM Costume meeting, and I know how many of you expressed their wish to make this possible
for another year.
In 2021, the ICOM General Assembly and annual meeting took place online, with a program  complemented by recorded interviews at Versailles and at Trianon, in the archives of a silk manufacturer, and object videos recorded at the Paris Mint Museum. Virtual guided tours of historical haberdasheries in Paris and of vintage fashion shops at the flea market in Saint-Ouen (France) posted on ICOM Costume’s You Tube Channel for a virtual post-conference tour.
These videos have now completed a series of ICOM Costume videos on Costume YouTube channel in the playlist ‘The Making of Luxury’.
This was ICOM Costume’s first virtual open forum and conference. In a short format, with a limited number of papers, this conference offered a session to ICOM Costume students. Some of the papers presented are published here as conference proceedings 2021 in pdf format as usual on the ICOM Costume mini site, edited by Georgina Ripley.
‘The Making of Luxury’ is the focus of the short selection of presentations in 2021: from Antiquity to present day, it will offer a worldwide journey through time, material, and techniques.
This event free of charge convened more than 100 attendees on line. I am grateful to ICOM France who supported the ICOM Costume annual meeting 2021.
I wish to thank all the people and institutions involved in the organization of the 2021 annual meeting.

Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset, Château de Versailles
Chair of the international committee ICOM for the museums and collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles

ISBN: 978-2-491997-71-7
Proceedings edited by Georgina Ripley, member of ICOM Costume Board (2019-2022).
Cover by Virginie Lassarre.
Images caption and copyright (cover): Shawl and cape, Europe, wool fabric embroided with silk, No. MNK XIX-10037.
Obtained for the collections of the former Technical and Industrial Museum in Krakow before 1899.
© National Museum in Krakow
© All copyrights, ICOM Costume 2021

Contents

Little luxury for women and men: embroidered or printed shawls and sashes from the collections of the National Museum in Krakow
Kowalska, Joanna Regina

One for All. The Luxury Not to Change: Floria Tosca’s costume at the Vienna State Opera 1958-2021
Nicolai, Dorothea

Paul Poiret and the ‘Battick’ haute couture
Wronska-Friend, Maria

The use of 3D virtual technologies for the research, conservation, and dissemination of archeological and historical textiles and costumes
Bries, Nathalie

Turbans, ersatz, and ingenuity. Women’s hairstyles in Occupied France: an affordable luxury?
Olivier, Marie

William Shakespeare between literary and fashion studies
Žarić, Stefan

If you want to download the whole document, please click here.